After two weeks in the harbour, an opportunity to try out some of the anchorages of Santa Maria had appeared for us. Although its easy to become comfortable with the convenience of being berthed in a marina, we’d much rather be anchored out.
However, the reality is that there aren’t many anchorages to choose from. Several are very small and only viable in very settled weather. However, the weather gods were smiling briefly on us, so we took a chance to visit Sao Lourenco and Praia Formosa.
The Anchorages of Santa Maria: The Bay of Sao Lourenco
We’d seen two boats anchored out when we’d visited Sao Louenco by scooter, vowing that we would return if possible. The anchorage is open to the east, but with a light westerly forecast we had a brief window for a visit.
The light wind meant that we had to motor the 13nm from the harbour around to the east side. We set off with a good SOG with tide with us. However, as we rounded the south east corner we came up against a counter current which stayed with us as we passed Maia. After that, our SOG slowly came back up over 5kts.
A Perfect Day at Anchor
We arrived in the bay of Sao Lourenco just after midday with the sun shining down. We headed over to the north side to be closer to the harbour. There is also a shallow reef over towards the south that we wanted to avoid. The sand 8m below us was clearly visible, we didn’t really need to swim to check the anchor was set properly. Neither did we need Bob, our anchor marker that floats 2m above the anchor, but we deployed it anyway.
There was the slightest of swells coming in, but nothing that was uncomfortable. We decided that with the light winds forecast, it was unlikely to become worse. So, we planned a BBQ for the evening, and I launched my Sevylor inflatable kayak.
Paddling to a Cave
I paddled off towards the Ilhéu de São Lourenço (or Ilhéu do Romeiro), a small island to the south of the bay. It has a cave in its seaward side, with stalactites and bats.
The rock formations were fascinating as I nosed into the cave, not going too far in because of the swell. The bats must have been hiding away, sleeping, as I unfortunately didn’t see any. Circling around the island to the shore, I came across bizarre lava formations that looked like black toothpaste squeezed out of its tube.
The First BBQ of 2024
Whilst I’d been exploring, Colin had prepared the BBQ. We enjoyed local steak, marinated pork, spiced aubergine slices and homemade coleslaw. After a pause, we finished off with toasted marshmallows, and local cheese washed down with Gran Canarian honey rum.
We had had been the perfect day at anchor, a mixture of exploring, relaxing and enjoying good food. It wasn’t the first anchorage of 2024, but it was the first outside of a harbour and amongst nature. The day was a good reminder of why we live life on a sailboat, and it was very welcome after the engine tribulations of the last two years.
Climbing the Fajazinha Steps
The slopes of Sao Lourenco are covered in corrais – walled enclosures where grapes are grown. The walls protect the vines from the worst of the weather, whilst the dark, volcanic rock traps the sun’s heat. To access each plot, the builders of these plots have also created narrow, stone staircases. They are incredibly steep, running straight up, with no zigzags to reduce the gradient.
One of these staircases is called the Fajazinha trail. It leads from the beach, half a mile up to the cliff top at 240m. I’d spied these steps running up between the grape enclosures on our first visit here. Climbing them seemed like a good way to burn off some of last night’s BBQ calories.
The wind was forecast to increase from the east in the afternoon, so I needed to get a move on. We dinghied over to a small, concrete walled harbour on the north side of the bay where there were steps and a slipway.
The air temperature was a pleasant 23C, but as I began to climb, the humidity and exertion soon had me dripping. I passed an older man with his grandkids and we stopped for a chat, a good excuse for a rest.
As another excuse for a rest, I stopped regularly to turn around and take in the view below me.
After 100m or so, the path did begin to zigzag, heading into the welcome shade of some trees. The track was quite slippery in places, with fallen leaves covering the dirt path. I’d decided to go back the long way rather than trouble my knees going back down this path.
Running Back the Long Way
Eventually, I arrived at the top, where there was a picnic area. I made use of the seat for a welcome, brief rest before heading off along the country lanes.
The scenery was so distracting, that the run was very much stop start. There were old windmills, chuckling streams, pretty cottages and empty, hydrangea lined roads.
Along the way I came across the Poço da Pedreira, a former quarry where nature has reclaimed the land and transformed it into a peaceful oasis. A freshwater pool has formed at the foot of the sheer, red, basaltic cliffs, providing a home for dragonflies, frogs, fish and two friendly ducks. Although I’m not sure how the fish will have found their way there! It was a beautiful spot, and an example of how nature can win through after our destructive hand has done its worst.
The pièce de résistance was the viewpoint over the bay. I’d seen it last week, but now it featured Emerald, bobbing away at anchor.
The Anchorages of Santa Maria: Praia Formosa
Unfortunately, the wind had started blowing in by midday and by the time I got back there was enough of a swell to move us on. So, we returned to Praia Formosa on the south of the island and the anchorage that we’d used on our first night. Another boat was there, and two others over on the west side.
We anchored close to our spot from our previous visit, in sand with the the anchor clearly visible 10m below.
There was a small swell on this side of the island too, but again it wasn’t uncomfortable.
Triggerfish and a Shark
Later on, I hopped into the clear, blue water for a swim. Sao Lourenco had been unusually devoid of fish around the hull, but they were all waiting for us in Praia Formosa. Within seconds I had a curious entourage of fish following me around, and getting quite close. I later learnt that they were triggerfish, otherwise known as “pig fish” for their tendency to eat anything, including nibbles of human flesh! Fortunately, this gang restrained themselves and I didn’t suffer any attacks.
The next morning I was preparing to swim again, when Colin called out to me,. He was pointing out to sea, where around 50m off of Emerald’s side, we could see a black triangle cutting lazy circles through the water. Occasionally a pointed tail would appear above the surface too, and we came to the conclusion that it was a shark. Not a big one, but still, I decided to delay my swim.
We saw it on and off throughout the day, although it always stayed at least 50m away.
Were the Anchorages of Santa Maria Worth Visiting?
We only had a brief visit to two of the anchorages of Santa Maria, but it is a resounding yes as to whether they were worth visiting. To be back bobbing at anchor, was such a welcome reminder of why we live this life.
So, if you get the weather opportunity, we highly recommend taking the time to visit these anchorages.
The charts and noforeighland.com show other anchorages, but we didn’t have the time to visit them. The forecast showed wind to blow us on to Sao Miguel the next day, and the day after that, on to Terceira.
Sailing Info for the Anchorages of Santa Maria
Marina do Vila do Porto to Sao Lourenco: 13nm
Anchored in sand 8m in position: 36 59.587’N 25 03.147’W
Light winds, motored all the way.
There are no shops in the village. Dinghies can be left at the small harbour on the north edge of the bay.
Sao Lourenco to east side of Praia Formosa: 9nm
Anchored in 10m in position 36 56.63’N 25 05.22’W
Light winds, motoring all the way.
We didn’t go ashore here, although there are cafes and bars along the beach.
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Thank you from Nichola & Colin
glad that the weather allowed you a little time at anchor – we didn’t a chance to anchor out but definitely loved visiting the various islands in the Azores – each a little different from each other -enjoy!
It was an unexpected treat, we didn’t think there were that many anchorages around the Azores, so this was a pleasant discovery